The basic lubrication requirements for Motorcycle Oils are normally three times more than those for ordinary automotive engine oils. In general, a good quality Motorcycle Oil should: (1) allow for the higher rev range of a motorcycle engine; (2) efficiently lubricate the motorcycle’s transmission system; and (3) effectively work for bikes that run on “wet clutches” to avoid clutch bites or slippage.
In general, the rule of thumb is to use the heaviest oil you can that still meets the manufacturer’s guidelines. For example, 20w50 works better in warm weather compared to 10w40 because it gives you a thicker oil cushion between bearing surfaces at operating temperature. For racing, thinner oil will offer less resistance and thus more power, but will offer less protection.
Oil sludge mostly occurs when the frequency between oil changes becomes too long and the additives that are mixed with the engine oil break down and solidifies. If left unattended, this may cause stalling, damage to the vehicle’s bearings, crankshaft and in extreme cases, complete engine failure. Through time, oil sludge build up is inevitable. But there are preventative ways that car owners can do to slow the process down and minimize its effect. Here are some simple tips and advice that can help:
FICTION: It is absolutely necessary to buy engine oil additives.
FACT: Additives, such as detergents, retardants and chemicals, can help prevent corrosion, minimize oil build up and protect engine parts from damage. But there is absolutely no need to buy them because most engine oils already HAVE these additives in their formulation.
FICTION: It is time to change the engine oil once it turns dark.
FACT: When the engine oil turns dark, it doesn’t necessarily mean that it is dirty. This just means that the detergent additive that is most probably present in the oil is breaking down the particles that causes sludge and is holding it in suspension (thus the darker color) so that it won’t solidify.
FICTION: You can NEVER change back to conventional oil once you switch to synthetic oils.
FACT: The primary objective is to find the RIGHT type of oil that works best for a vehicle. This means that sometimes, it is necessary to try out different types of oils and brands. But once you find a correct oil & engine fit, it is considered very good practice to stick with that oil type and brand, until specific applications and conditions change that require the owner to switch again.
FICTION: Synthetic oil should be for used old engines with original seals to improve performance.
FACT: Engines that were built before 1992 comes with seals that are not compatible with synthetic based oils. Using synthetic oils with these seals can cause leaks because of its lower viscosity levels.
When you spend thousand, if not millions, of dollars investing in state-of-the-art machineries and equipment for your business, it is always in your best interest to keep them well maintained and running smoothly. And while breakdowns and mechanical problems are sometimes inevitable, there are ways that you do to try to minimize these problems from arising or from causing irreparable damage. Enforcing a regular oil maintenance program is one of them.
Below are the two most common industrial oil-related problems that you can look out for as well as possible solutions that you can enforce to keep your production operations running smoothly:
PROBLEM: Solid Particle Build Up
During operations, oil used in machineries can accumulate solid particles that come from dirt, metal wear and environmental elements. These particles eventually build up and can cause the oil to become abrasive. When left ignored, this constant abrasion can lead to a decreased operational performance of the machine seals that will, in turn cause leakage and increased operational costs.
SOLUTION: Regular maintenance of the machinery (cleaning and diagnostic check-ups) and scheduled oil filtering, analysis (eg. ISO Cleanliness Code or “Particle Count”) and oil change.
PROBLEM: Moisture Accumulation
Industrial oils have a tendency to accumulate moisture. Whether it’s from humidity or from other from additives, this can affect the oil’s over-all effectiveness and can cause equipment/machines to seize or chatter, along with a whole slew of other performance problems. Additionally, when moisture becomes acidic, it can slowly corrode a machine’s internal parts and valves, which leads to bigger, more expensive mechanical problems.
SOLUTION: Scheduled preventive maintenance and neutralization tests like Total Acid Number can greatly help minimize the loss of oil efficiency, loss in production and equipment downtime.
What factors should you consider before buying high temperature grease for my machineries?
Choosing the right type of high temperature grease is critical in ensuring the optimal performance and life cycle of your machineries and equipment. To help you get started, below are some points you should consider before buying:
What is an engine coolant for and what is it made of?
Primarily, a coolant’s function is to neutralize the heat caused by fuel combustion in the engine block. Generally, coolants are made of a heat transfer medium like de-ionized water and glycol, various corrosion inhibitors and various additives.
Most engine coolants use Ethylene Glycol as its main ingredient, although sometimes, methanol, ethanol, isopropyl alcohol and propylene glycol are also used by some brands. When mixed with water, the resulting solution is used to lower the freezing point and raise the boiling point of your radiator fluids to keep it from freezing during cold weather and overheating during hot weather. Additives such as anti-foaming agents are also often put into the mix for enhanced protection.
Can antifreeze be used without adding water?
Using glycol-based antifreeze without mixing it with water will not provide enough protection and can ultimately damage your engine, cause blockages in your cooling system and corrode your pump seals.
Can plain water be used as a coolant without using glycol?
It is possible, but since water has a very limited operating temperature range, it can only protect you to a certain degree and will not allow for inconsistency or variation in application and climate conditions.
What are the right proportions to achieve specific temperature ranges when mixing coolants with water?
Below is a chart that can assist you in getting the right operating temperature range that you need in proportion to the volume of dilution required:
% Anti-Freeze |
% Water |
Protection Against Freezing |
* Protection Against Boil-Over |
| 30 | 70 | -17°C | 121°C |
| 40 | 60 | -23°C | 126°C |
| 50 | 50 | -37°C | 129°C |
| 60 | 40 | -52°C | 132°C |
| 70 | 30 | -64°C | 136°C |
*With a 100 kilopascal (15 psi) radiator cap in good condition
